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出门在外也不愁关于皮鞋。。。我想说2句。。。。 - 时尚论坛 - Powered by Discuz!
标题: 关于皮鞋。。。我想说2句。。。。
作者: klakers& & 时间:
14:53 & & 标题: 关于皮鞋。。。我想说2句。。。。
请不要说到皮鞋就SF,tod\'S。。。。。也别连berluti、john lobb、kiton见都没见过就疯狂的捧他们。。。现别谈价格,他们未必是你喜欢的类型哦。。。。
简单的说,皮鞋主要看的是如下几点:
3、缝合技术
上图给大家看看目前最昂贵的双线norwegian缝合。。。
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作者: klakers& & 时间:
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作者: klakers& & 时间:
成品图片附件:
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作者: klakers& & 时间:
下面看看很受追捧的berluti。。。。图片附件:
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作者: gotham& & 时间:
没下文了?我们还等着继续看呢
作者: klakers& & 时间:
我其实是个很懒的人,也不喜欢组织语言,更懒得去网上到处copy。。只是很看不惯出口就是SF,tod\'S之类的。。。SF 其实真的很滥。。。。。。老实说,真的连stemar都比不上,stemar打折的时候只要2k左右。。。。。。。tod\'s所谓的最舒适的鞋。。。。算了吧。。。。。台湾的ostrich也不会比它差多少。。至于prada那种大众奢侈品。。。。不提也罢,他们家的鞋根本都是不上道的。。。。。。遗憾的是polo rl最近貌似把正装鞋的OEM厂家换了。。。以前的可是EDWARD GREEN。。。。。。
下面主要以图为主了。。。。图片附件:
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作者: klakers& & 时间:
你真确定你喜欢berluti?
至少我不喜欢。。。。。。图片附件:
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作者: klakers& & 时间:
他最剽悍的地方其实在于其鞋面打磨工艺。。。。。图片附件:
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作者: klakers& & 时间:
言必称KITON貌似成了一种风潮。。。。是不是不提kiton就会让人觉得很逊?我不这么认为。。。。。
kiton的鞋子和衣服款式都不是我喜欢的。。。。图片附件:
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作者: klakers& & 时间:
还是kiton,看上去挺像金盾的。。。。图片附件:
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作者: klakers& & 时间:
在下面是那个很生僻的Silvano Lattanzi,貌似不少人提到他就会觉得自己知道那么一些什么了。。。。
事实上,这个牌子的风格有点类似berluti。。。图片附件:
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作者: klakers& & 时间:
还是它。。。图片附件:
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作者: klakers& & 时间:
不好意思,上面错贴了一张匈牙利的VASS。。。VASS也是很不错的。。。。
作者: klakers& & 时间:
下面来一双可以代表英式皮鞋颠峰品牌的john lobb。。。。。当然,法国的jl和英国的还是有些许区别。。。图片附件:
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作者: klakers& & 时间:
john lobb。。。因为我不是很喜欢jl的derby款,所以我贴的是oxford。。。图片附件:
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作者: klakers& & 时间:
Crockett & Jones 。。。。。性价比还不错的,虽然不如EG和JL,但是差的也不远。。。
至少比目前国内KC专柜上面8000+的可笑的CHEANEY要强的多。。。。BTW。。。KC纯粹是黑钱的。。。。他们衣服都是都本OEM。。。。图片附件:
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作者: klakers& & 时间:
还是CJ图片附件:
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作者: klakers& & 时间:
我个人最喜欢的其实是如下几个牌子。。。
1、Sutor Mantellassi
2、Santoni的FAM系列
3、A.Testoni
图改天在发。。。。。要回家过端午了。。。。
作者: gotham& & 时间:
鞋都太老气了,还就这款Crockett & Jones好一些,德比款穿得也舒服些。
作者: 小小七& & 时间:
对我来说,男鞋都像船
作者: Border Collie& & 时间:
确实这样的鞋子有&#双足矣,黑1+咖Ġ浅的,偏红的)大部分时间还是un之类的穿穿可以了,RL的鞋子有一双,再好也没有好的休闲舒服,还是放松脚来的爽,呵呵。当然了,这类鞋子看着就是享受。
作者: gotham& & 时间:
对,还是女鞋好看。 所以SF还是值得买的:)
作者: klakers& & 时间:
最好的鞋还是拖鞋,哈哈哈。。
记得当年ADI有个天足概念就是Feet you wear。。。。。
此外。。。。老气。。。这个词永远存在与男装,与其说老气,不如说经典。。。。。像JL就有的鞋楦用几十年。。。。。。年轻人都会比较喜欢轻巧点的鞋,但是如果进入正式社交场合了,穿一双很cheap的鞋会让人浑身不自在。。。。。
作者: 咖啡 加点盐& & 时间:
还是比较喜欢TOD\'S& &KITON这些顶级的都偏正装了点
作者: Border Collie& & 时间:
拖鞋到不一定最舒服啦,而且走路多的话就不方便了,感觉还是布鞋比较舒服。
作者: 吃斋的野狼& & 时间:
很有研究啊
好奇LZ从事什么职业啊?
作者: 金童& & 时间:
[QUOTE=Border Collie]拖鞋到不一定最舒服啦,而且走路多的话就不方便了,感觉还是布鞋比较舒服。[/QUOTE]
&&光着脚丫满地跑&&舒服啊
作者: 金童& & 时间:
楼主&&我在这帖学到很多知识啊~~谢谢呦
作者: Raymond791115& & 时间:
呵呵,我也是进来学习的........
作者: napokkr& & 时间:
allen edmonds如何啊?
很多朋友都说这个牌子的鞋很上脚
作者: Raymond791115& & 时间:
知识帖!
作者: dolleyes& & 时间:
我喜欢MARC JACOBS的鞋子
作者: 猫猫天使& & 时间:
系带鞋太正式了
作者: Alexdye_Zeng& & 时间:
好帖~~
作者: leon_0225& & 时间:
好像日本鞋子。
日本最近流行的鞋子都是这个样子的。
其实是日本鞋子就是抄人家欧美的拉。哈哈。
日本鞋一双大&#&#元。
作者: chantelchen& & 时间:
印度人都穿方头鞋,最讨厌方头鞋
作者: jaycehoo& & 时间:
学习了
作者: klakers& & 时间:
ALLEN EDMONDS是目前少有的的大部分在美国制造的美国品牌皮鞋了。。。。当然ALDEN的鞋子也是。。。但alden的要贵的多。。。
AE的正装&#刀左右,顶级款大&#,做工稍显粗糙,不过在这个价位上超过BALLY同价位的。
类似AE的还有johnston&murphy,不过JM的鞋子已经不再美国作了。。。。所以价格也只有AE的一半了。。。。。
作者: ben14& & 时间:
问楼主一下johnston&murphy的价位在多少?有人帮我带了一双
作者: klakers& & 时间:
回楼上,JM的鞋最贵&#美刀左右,但是这个价位的比较少....
大多数&#左右....跟ecco的价格差不多.
作者: ben14& & 时间:
谢谢楼主了,我还想再问一下,BALLY的鞋真的是部分手工作的吗?
作者: ben14& & 时间:
顶一下
作者: 大象跳舞& & 时间:
写得不错 几乎比较有名的几个英国的牌子都包括了 Church's能再加上就更好了
Berluti的鞋子就像你说的 打磨确实漂亮 但鞋楦却不适合很多人 有的时候美也要付出代价的
Ralph Lauren PL 的OEM换了? 太可惜了&&我以前超级喜欢它鞋底的nail pattern的
楼上有人提到Alden, 他家的鞋出名是因为shell cordovan, 可惜马皮的光泽我实在是接受不了
哦对了, Brooks Brothers家的Cordovan都是Alden代工的, Peal & Co.系列里英国产的几乎都是 Crockett & Jones或者是 Alfred Sargent代工的
LZ有机会的话 再讲讲EG/ J.M.Weston/Gaziano & Girling/Vass吧 都是些不错的鞋字
对了 stitching真得没多大区别 我指的是norwegian versus welt, 毕竟大家穿上这些鞋不会把脚泡在水里 norwegian stitch卖得这么贵稍稍有些误区吧
作者: 2332392& & 时间:
KC是什么?
3狮的那个?
作者: 陆毅•胃疼& & 时间:
看楼主的口气好像什么牌子都看不上眼似的。
像我等穷人只要好看就行了,像楼主讲的那些没有机会接触,飘过。
作者: confusedFP& & 时间:
KC是指kenneth cole new york吗?
顺便问下楼主,mezlan的鞋怎么样
作者: VONNIE& & 时间:
不喜欢所有上脚都要起泡的鞋
作者: lhe7& & 时间:
本来正装鞋就是配西服正装的,除非穿着皮鞋跑步要不然也不会脚起泡吧······真要跑步走路要休闲舒适的时候穿运动服+运动鞋不就好了么·····
作者: VONNIE& & 时间:
近几年我上班也不穿正装西服了,别说这些一本正经的皮鞋
作者: frozendream& & 时间:
21:18 & & 标题: 太一本正经了
国内实在穿不上 妈的政府都是土包子
作者: syyy& & 时间:
年轻可以穿休闲。
到正规场合就得系带了。
作者: confusedFP& & 时间:
没事啊,我觉得系带鞋就很好看,也很帅
作者: mqmqmq& & 时间:
楼主LV皮鞋好吗
作者: klakers& & 时间:
这么久远的帖子竟然又被翻起了。。。。。
回楼上的。。。。。LV的正装相当不错的。。。。。我估计是哪个意大利鞋厂代工的。。
哈哈,原来我是很喜欢visvim的,现在年龄大了以后还是觉得皮鞋好。。。。。休闲有mocasin,或者一般的靴子,正装也有loafer和oxford可以搭配。
作者: 5215839& & 时间:
lz, 请教下ARTIOLI怎么样。我这里卖的很贵。我一直在犹豫是买它还是SANTONI来慰劳下自己。
作者: 金童& & 时间:
原帖由 klakers 于
08:41 发表
这么久远的帖子竟然又被翻起了。。。。。
回楼上的。。。。。LV的正装相当不错的。。。。。我估计是哪个意大利鞋厂代工的。。
哈哈,原来我是很喜欢visvim的,现在年龄大了以后还是觉得皮鞋好。。。。。休闲有 ...
呵呵 好帖子10年都不算久远哦
作者: barolo& & 时间:
贴个国外对RTW鞋的看法,貌似不是很推berluti。JL,EG倒不错的
John Lobb Paris -- Just about the most sublime RTW shoe available (Jermyn II) is made by John Lobb Paris. The shoes with the &bevelled bootmaker& soles (Lobb calls them the &Prestige& line) are usually superlative. They're made from skins that are frequently close to bespoke in quality, the lasts typically used (7000 and 8000) are elegant, and the construction is every bit as good as the best machine-made shoes in the world. The regular line isn't as good -- no bevelled waists, some lasts used are less elegant (), etc. -- but they're still excellent shoes. The prices have gotten completely out of control -- nearly $900 for a regular-line cap-toe bal is outrageous, in my humble opinion. The original John Lobb in London started its Paris outpost in 1901. In 1976, the Paris shop was sold to Hermes, along with the exclusive right to market RTW shoes bearing the Lobb name (except in Japan, where there exists a substandard line of shoes called Lobb's that is completely unaffiliated with either JL St. James or JL Paris). JL Paris shoes are made in the former Edward Green factory in Northampton, England, which is why it appears in this section rather than in the French section.
Edward Green -- Maker of the second most sublime RTW shoe available (Dover) and user of some wonderfully elegant lasts (82, 808, 888, etc.). EG doesn't make an equivalent to JL Paris's bevelled bootmaker shoes, but their shoes are made to standards equal to or better than JL's regular line shoes. EG is known for the antiquing that they
they get their skins in a &crust& state, without much if any pigment applied. That allows them to apply a wonderful variegated finish to all of their non-black shoes. I think it's beautiful, but others aren't so enthusiastic.
Church's -- They use a lot of corrected-grain leather, they half-line a lot of their non-summer shoes in linen, and a lot of their shoes have rubber top-lifts. Not very nice, if you ask me, especially at the prices that Church's tries to charge. Church's built the first Northampton shoe factory in the second half of the 19th century.
Crockett & Jones -- Crockett & Jones produces two separate lines of shoes. The regular line are solid and well-made are are a good value for the money. The Handgrade shoes are freqently beautiful, particularly if made on the Dimitri Gomez-designed 337 last. The Handgrade shoes retail for perhaps $200 less than Edward Green and appear to be designed to compete with EG. They're good shoes, but I don't think that they're quite there -- the antiquing isn't as good, the last shapes aren't as refined, the standards of construction are just a little bit lower -- but whether you think that they're close enough to make the $200 difference a bargain is an individual decision. In any event, C&J does a tremendous amount of private-label shoe manufacturing at various different quality levels for various different retailers.
Grenson -- This firm's name is a contraction of &William Green and Son,& which suggests that once upon a time there might have been some relationship with Edward Green. I'm not certain. This firm is capable of making very high-quality shoes comparable to C&J Handgrade. Grenson used to sell these &Masterpieces& shoes under their own label. Recently, however, Grenson appears to have fallen on hard times and has ceased selling these shoes except as private-label offerings. It's a pity. They were wonderful shoes. The good news is that Stuart's Choice shoes from Paul Stuart are made to the old Masterpieces standards by Grenson. I have never seen any Grenson shoes from the lower lines (Feathermasters and what not), so I can't comment about the level of quality.
Tricker's -- Well-made shoes. Some of them are unexciting or made on inelegant lasts, but the quality of construction is very good and the prices are very reasonable.
Barker -- I have never seen these shoes in the flesh. From their website, it looks like they specialize in low-priced shoes with a high proportion being made from corrected-grain leather. Barker Black is Barker's attempt to go upmarket. They're certainly distinctive (skull and crossbones medallions and whatnot), but I don't know if they're entirely successful aesthetically.
Cheaney -- Cheaney is owned by Church's (at least they were the last time I checked), although I don't think that Cheaney and Church's have cross-pollinated much. The Cheaney shoes that I have seen have been solid, if unexciting.
Loake -- Another English maker that I know little about except what I have seen online, and what I have seen online leads me to believe that Loake produces a profusion of cheap, corrected-grain shoes.
Alfred Sargent -- Alfred Sargent is another maker that produces private-label merchandise for everybody and another maker with a profusion of different lines of varying quality. The Premier and Premier Exclusive lines appear to be very good and very fairly priced.
Schnieder Boots -- I know nothing whatever about Schnieder except that they hold a royal warrant and that most of the footwear they sell is equestrian.
New & Lingwood -- George Cleverley himself used to work in N&L's bespoke operation, as did George Glasgow and John Carnera, the men who inherited Cleverley's name and set up the GJ Cleverley bespoke firm in the early 1990s. Sadly, N&L's bespoke operation is a thing of the past, and most of their shoe offerings appear to be rebadged Grenson and Alfred Sargent shoes. They do have some RTW shoes made from the famous Catherina von Flensburg Russian reindeer hide, and I believe, although I am not certain, that those shoes were made by Crockett & Jones.
Wildsmith -- Another former bespoke maker with a wonderful past and a somewhat less glorious present. My understanding, although I have never seen the shoes, is that Mr. Wildsmith sells rebadged Edward Green and Crockett & Jones shoes at steep markups.
GJ Cleverley -- The sample Cleverley RTW shoes that I have seen are almost certainly made by Crockett & Jones. In fact, a pair of Cleverley bespoke shoes came to me in a RTW box very similar to the light blue box that C&J uses, complete with the last number 337 emblazoned on the side. It is possible that Cleverley uses other makers for some of their models, however.
Peal -- Yet another now-defunct but legendary name in bespoke shoemaking. Brooks Brothers acquired the right to market RTW shoes bearing the Peal name from the Peal bespoke company in the early 1950s (JLibourel below places the date in 1953, and I have no reason to doubt him). The Peal bespoke firm later ceased operations in the 1960s, leaving Brooks Brothers with the only Peal-labeled shoes left. The original BB Peal shoes were made by Edward Green, and, if pictures are any guide, were things of beauty, both in quality of construction (is anything from Edward Green anything else) and in last shape, which was a distinctive high-walled banana sort of thing. A few years ago, BB revived the line, this time with shoes made by Crockett & Jones. More recently, other Peal shoes, probably made by Alfred Sargent, have come to dominate BB's Peal offerings. It's worthwhile to note that just because a particular pair of Peal shoes is made by Crockett & Jones, it doesn't mean that those shoes are made to the standards of any particular C&J-labelled shoes. Retailers will specify the quality level of the upper leather, sole leather, and so on in order to bring the shoes in a and shoe factories are happy to accommodate them.
Ralph Lauren -- As everybody knows, Ralph Lauren does not actually make any shoes. He buys shoes. A lot of them. From a lot of different manufacturers in a lot of different countries. So why am I putting him in the England category? Because the most noteworthy shoes bearing his name are made in England. First are the Polo-labeled English-made shoes. These used to be made by Crockett & Jones, and the models sold were identical to models that appeared in the C&J catalogue. In late 2004 or early 2005, this changed. The models were different. The interior markings were different and were unlike anything I had ever seen from C&J. The soles were channeled instead of stitched aloft as they had been previously. My overall impression was that the quality level of the shoes increased. The price certainly did. In any event, I suspect that these shoes are no longer made by Crockett & Jones. I could certainly be wrong, but the interior markings make me suspicious. Second are what used to be called the Purple Label shoes and what are now labeled Ralph Lauren Made In England. These shoes are made by Edward Green and appear to be of the same quality in every respect to EG-labeled shoes. They do come with laquered, lasted trees, unlike regular EG and many of them are made on 89 last, which is generally only used for RL shoes. They are often available at considerable discount during RL sales.
作者: barolo& & 时间:
15:51 & & 标题: 接上帖
A. Testoni -- Three different levels of quality. Regular-line shoes (now called Studium, I believe) are okay, if a little bit fashion-forward. The Black Label shoes are better. They're all Bologna-constructed, and every so often I see a model that I actually could wear. Most of them are a bit too fashion-forward for my tastes, and the prices (over $700 per pair) are high. The third line is called Amedeo Testoni and consists of Goodyear-welted and Norwegian constructed shoes. These are excellently-made but mostly unattractive to my eyes. They're also extremely expensive for what you're getting.
Bruno Magli -- Magli has a number of different lines. The only line worth talking about is the Platinum line. They appear to be well made (I think that they're Blake-constructed), but the designs are a bit over-the-top for me. They're also very expensive for the quality. I don't believe that Magli actually owns any production facilities but rather contracts all production out to third parties.
Silvano Lattanzi -- Handmade shoes of impeccable quality. Lattanzi was originally brought to the United States by Louis Boston and is a pioneer here of handmade shoes and very high prices. He's best known for gunboat-sized Norwegian- or Bentivegna-constructed shoes with flashy antiquing, but he can do more subdued styles as well.
Kiton -- Kiton's shoes have a eye-popping antiquing similar to what one sees on Lattanzi shoes, but the last shapes tend to be sleeker and the designs, while unusual, are generally more conservative.
Sutor Mantellassi -- I will admit that I have a soft spot in my heart for Sutor Mantellassi shoes. I love the way that they do Norwegian construction (with a single row of stitching rather than the flashier two braided rows favored by other makers) and their innovative use of skin stitching. Like most Italian producers, Mantellassi has more than one line: a Blake-constructed line of good but not outstanding quality and a Norwegian or Goodyear-constructed line that is of excellent quality.
Gravati -- One of my favorite Italian manufacturers, not because there aren't better producers out there (there are) but because Gravati makes an excellent shoe for a reasonable price and because they are almost infinitely flexible in what they can and will produce. Over the years, I have placed many, many special orders for Gravati shoes, and they are always right and of remarkably consistent quality. Their shoes are mostly Blake- and Blake/Rapid-constructed, but they will make Goodyear-welted shoes on request.
Borgioli -- Borgioli is a major producer of private-label shoes, some of which are made to execrable standards of quality and which Borgioli would never want to claim. Hey, they need to survive. The shoes produced under their own label are very good. Most are Blake-constructed. A few are Norwegian-constructed, and they are excellent.
Romano Martegani -- Martegani operates a very good Blake and Blake/Rapid factory, and they are endlessly flexible. Gravati will almost never say no to a customer's cockamamie ideas for a shoe, but they will say no sometimes. Martegani won't. These are good, not excellent, shoes offered for a reasonable price. User Ron Rider, formerly the shoe manager at Franco's in Richmond, is now the US distributer for Martegani.
Salvatore Ferragamo -- Like Bruno Magli, Ferragamo doesn't own any of their own production facilities. Also like Bruno Magli, they market shoes of widely varying qualities. The Studio line shoes are cemented and not worth the money they cost. The Lavarazione Originale line shoes are generally Blake-constructed and are often attractive and well-made, if overpriced. The Tramezza line shoes are Goodyear-welted and are very good. Ferragamo has a joint venture with Zegna called Zefer, and Zefer produces all of the Zegna-labelled shoes. I believe, although I am not certain, that Zegna owns the production facilities for these shoes, some of which are very good.
StefanoBi -- I don't know a whole lot about StefanoBi shoes, but I believe that this was Stefano Branchini's original company and that he sold it to LVMH in the 1990s. The StefanoBi factory apparently produces shoes for all of the LVMH companies, including Berluti. The only pair of StefanoBi shoes that I ever saw (square-toe tan wingtip balmorals) were attractive in a flashy, Italian sort of way.
Stefano Branchini -- If I recall correctly, I believe that Sr. Branchini started this company after he sold StefanoBi to LVMH. I have never seen any of these shoes in the flesh, and I really can't comment on the quality of construction. What I can say is that these shoes, to me, represent everything that is wrong with Italian shoemaking today. They're ugly and over-the-top. It's like Sr. Branchini took all that is excessive about Lattanzi shoes and used it as a toned-down model for what he wanted to do.
Artioli -- I believe, although I am not sure, that Artioni shoes are mostly Bologna-constructed. They look to be well-made and are undoubtedly very flexible. I have two primary complaints with Artioli shoes. First is the leather that they tend to use: it's that glove-leather-looking stuff that Italian shoes were known for in the 1980s. Sure, it's soft, but it doesn't wear very well. Secondly, they have succumbed to the witch's shoes trend: their shoes nowadays tend to have elongated, needle-nose snouts that I think are extremely ugly.
Santoni -- Santoni produces many, many different lines of shoes. The Nuvola shoes have natural rubber soles and are decently-constructed and comfortable Blake shoes. The Classic line consists of some Bologna, some Blake, and some Goodyear shoes. The new Bologna models, in particular, are made on a very attractive round-toe last and are extremely flexible. The Fatte a Mano line consists of some Blake and some Goodyear, Norwegian, or Bentivegna shoes. Many of the Fatte a Mano models are, well, ugly, with overly-elongated, pointy, witch's-shoes- but when they're right, they're very, very right. Regardless, while you can complain about the looks of the non-Blake Fatte a Manos, you can't complain about the construction. It's excellent.
Moreschi -- Moreschi is yet another good maker of mid-range Blake-constructed shoes. Much of what they sell is, ah, exuberant. Combinations of blue peccary with blue ostrich leg are to be found. You don't have to buy those. The normal shoes are well-made and reasonably priced. Probably a small step below Gravati in quality of construction, and much below Gravati in flexibility of offerings and receptivity to special orders.
Fratelli Peluso -- I have seen a number of different types of Peluso shoes. The first is a line of Goodyear-welted shoes that look to be well-constructed and fairly-priced. From the website, it appears that these shoes have a gemmed linen feather and are machine-welted just as most English welted shoes. Given the price (under $500 per pair), this is to be expected. Peluso also makes a line of Blake-constructed shoes and yet another line of Blake-constructed shoes sold under the &Peluso for To Boot Adam Derrick& label. Both appear to be relatively well-constructed shoes offered for reasonable prices.
Barrett -- I have never seen a Barrett shoe in person, but their website certainly shows a number of beautiful models. Although the website doesn't specify the construction methods used, it's likely that most of them are Blake or Blake/Rapid constructed, with a few Norwegian models.
Bontoni -- This company has made a recent splash on the US market, getting themselves carried by Louis Boston and Stanley Korshak. The shoes are very much of a piece with a lot of high-end Italian shoes nowadays: a bit clunky, with eye-popping antiquing. If you like that sort of thing, these shoes appear to be well-made versions of the aesthetic. The problem is that they're grossly overpriced. They're Blake/Rapid-constructed, and the channel for the Rapid sole stitching isn't closed. Frankly, the quality of construction is inferior to Gravati or Martegani, and yet the retail price for the calfskin models is nearly $1000 per pair.
Bonora -- Florentine bespoke maker that has branched into RTW. I don't know if these are factory-made shoes of if they are made in Bonora's workshop. Given the prices, I suspect that the former is more likely than the latter. The shoes themselves appear to be mostly Goodyear-welted and staid in their styling.
De Tommaso -- A specialist in handmade Goodyear, Norwegian, and Treccia shoes. See Ron Rider's post below.
Zegna -- A few years ago, Zegna began a joint venture with Ferragamo called Zefer (oh, the originality!) to produce Zegna-labeled shoes. I suspect, although I do not know for sure, that Zegna actually owns the production facilities for these shoes. In any event, they run the gamut from the very ordinary to the very nice. Most of the lower-priced versions are either cemented or Blake-constructed. The top-of-the-line shoes, however, are Goodyear-welted and very attractive. As with a lot of Zegna's products, they are probably overpriced for what they are, but what they are appears to be excellent quality shoes.
JM Weston -- The triple-soled hand-welted Chasse model is amazing and one of the true classic shoes available today. The other shoes aren't made to the same standards, but they are well-made machine-made welted shoes. I don't think that they're quite to EG standards, but they're not priced like EG, either. The Perry-designed Weston shoes are extremely distinctive. People either love them or hate them. I happen to love them.
Berluti -- I will admit that I feel betrayed by Berluti. Since I became aware of high-end shoes, Berluti's classic Club three-eyelet wholecut has been on my list of sublime RTW shoes. I wanted a pair terribly. Then Barney's started carrying Berluti, and I got to see the shoe in person. Talk about a let-down. There's just nothing special about the construction. Most Berluti shoes are Blake-constructed in the StefanoBi factory in Italy, and, frankly, you can get a better-constructed shoe for $700 less from Gravati. It just doesn't seem right.
Aubercy -- Aubercy's shoes typically are flashy, and I believe that most of the RTW is Blake-constructed in Italy. Nevertheless, I like them. To me, they succeed where Berluti's RTW fails. But that might be just me.
Altan -- Another maker that I know very little about. According to &A‰tienne below, Altan's shoes are Blake-constructed, made in Italy, and fashion-forward, concentrating on extreme patination, a la Berluti and others.
Marc Guyot -- I know nothing whatever about the quality or construction methods of these shoes. You can see as much as I can from looking at the pictures on the website. According to &A‰tienne below, these shoes are Blake-constructed and Italian-made.
Heschung -- Heschung is a specialist in rubber-soled Norwegian-constructed country shoes, although they make a full range of other styles, from driving mocs to dress shoes. For a time, they made some of JL Paris's more casual shoes, although I believe that this has been discontinued. I have very little experience with them, but I have been impressed with the shoes that I have seen, especially for the price. Heschung is based in A but I believe I have read that they are moving at least some of their production out of France, although to where I can't remember.
Corthay -- I believe that Corthay's initial foray into RTW shoes was composed of a line made for them in Spain. Now, I am told, their RTW shoes are made in a factory outside Paris. I don't know about the standards of production, but the pictures make them look very nice indeed.
Finsbury -- I know nothing about this maker. Help me out, guys.
Bexley -- In what must by now seem like a recurring theme, I don't know a bit about this maker. They offer good-looking Goodyear-welted shoes at good prices, but I have never seen them and know nothing of their quality.
Loding -- This maker seems to be similar to Bexley in that they offer good-looking Goodyear-welted shoes for low prices and that I know nothing about their quality.
Paraboot -- More well-priced, attractive Goodyear-welted shoes. Unlike the preceeding two makers, I do know a little bit about Paraboot: people whose opinions I trust tell me that these are well-made. That's about all I know.
Carmina (Albaladejo) -- Carmina is shell cordovan specialist, but instead of sticking with the standard deep burgundy Color 8, they like to branch into more exotic colors like green, blue, tomato red, and whiskey. They do make calfskin shoes, too. In the past, Carmina has suffered from inelegant lasts, although over the last two years or so, they have remedied that with the Philly 2 and the Rain. The shoes themselves are Goodyear-welted and may have a slightly lower quality of construction than the very best in the RTW however, they are good shoes that are typically offered at very good prices.
Yanko -- I know very little about Yanko. Others have commented that they make solid, if unexciting Goodyear-welted shoes, and that seems reasonable given the models shown on their website.
Pertini -- According to Ron Rider, currently the US agent for Martegani, formerly the manager of the shoe department at Franco's, an excellent independent men's store in Richmond, VA, Pertini shoes are the product of the Igmapa factory. Some of these shoes are Goodyear-welted, although it appears from the pictures on the website that not all of them are. I believe that Ron has said that these shoes offer good value for the money, but other than this statement and the pictures on the website, I know very little about them.
Central and Eastern Europe
Vass -- Vass gets a lot of discussion on the forums, mostly, I think, because Gabor Halmos and Andrew Harris, the faces of Vass in the United States, participate here. That attention is well-deserved. Vass shoes are handmade products made to extremely high standards, and they are works of art. They are among the finest RTW footwear that you can find anywhere, at any price. Their traditional Hungarian lasts are distinctive but not for everybody. Recently, though, they have branched into sleeker last shapes such as the P2 and especially the F and the U, both of the latter developed for the Roberto Ugolini RTW shoes sold in Japan and made by Vass. In case it's not obvious from the preceding, I think the world of Vass shoes and am conflicted about the possibilities of Gabor and Andrew having success in establishing the brand here in the United States only because I fear that it will mean increased prices. For a more extended discussion of Vass shoes, see my post here.
St. Crispin's -- St. Crispin's is based in Vienna, although both their bespoke shoes and their RTW shoes are made in Romania. From the descriptions on their website, thes and I like the look of them very much. The last shapes are Central European, with h but they're more elegant than, say, Vass's traditional lasts (not F, U, and P2 -- think Peter or 3636) or Dinkelacker's.
Heinrich Dinkelacker -- Aside from Vass, Dinkelacker makes the only legitimate RTW Budapesters with anything like a wide distribution. It's a German company, although I believe that the shoes are made in Humgary. They're not for the faint of heart or for those who want a sleek, minimizing shoe. They're big gunboats, and proud of it. I have never seen any in person, but I like the way they look. If only they were distributed in the US.
Bally -- Bally is a Swiss company, and if their website can be believed, they still maintain a factory in Caslano, Switzerland. Jim Pierce, the owner of the shoe department at Harold's in the Heights in Houston likes to reminisce about how years ago, Bally was the first company that he ordered spec shoes from. Sadly, Bally decided that its future was in becoming a fashion brand, and they degraded their quality and became unwilling to work with independent fiddlers like Jim. What I've seen on their website about their Scribe line of shoes is encouraging, however. The shoes look to be, well, solid, double- but all the verbiage about construction is right. I hope that this signals a return of Bally to the land of quality shoes.
United States
Alden -- Along with Allen-Edmonds, one of the two premier US makers of shoes. Alden is a shell cordovan specialist, and their shell cordovan shoes have something of a cult following in Japan and Germany. For the most part, aside from limited production spec shoes made for a few retailers like Alden of Carmel, Alden shoes are extremely conservative, both in design and last shape. The latter is frequently chunky and blob-like, particularly on the shell cordovan models. Alden makes both calfskin and shell cordovan shoes for Brooks Brothers, sold under the Brooks Brothers label.
Allen-Edmonds -- Allen-Edmonds is a much bigger company than Alden, and they're more willing to take risks and bring out new styles, some of which work and some of which are ugly, than is Alden. Their largeness is also the reason why they're easier to find and to find at a discount. I'm not going to get into the whole Alden vs. Allen-Edmonds debate except to say that I don't like Allen-Edmonds' use of 360-degree welting on all of their shoes and that I wish they didn't use uncovered insoles. There is no doubt that Allen-Edmonds makes good-quality shoes and that it would be difficult to go wrong spending $300 on a pair.
Johnston & Murphy -- I mention Johnston & Murphy here as a general lament about what has happened to US shoe companies. It used to be that J&M, Cole Haan, Stacey Adams (yes, Stacey Adams), Nettleton, and others joined with Alden and Allen-Edmonds to produce excellent welted footwear. One by one, all except Alden and Allen-Edmonds either shut down or shipped production overseas and went downmarket. J&M was the last holdout, but, alas, they couldn't resist forever. A few years ago, they shut down the factory in Tennessee and moved almost all production overseas (except for their Crown Aristocraft line, which continue to be made in the US; I can't say whether they are made in Tennessee or at another US facility). It's a shame, really. If you can find any of the NOS (New Old Stock) J&M Handmades around in your size, snap them up. They will never be made again.
作者: freaty& & 时间:
嘿嘿,這貼子又被頂上來了
作者: 走钢索的人& & 时间:
楼主是转STYLE FORUM的文字和图片的吧
怎么不展示一下你自己的收藏?
作者: bleezzard& & 时间:
确实是转STYLE FORUM的,我以前也看过,上面还有还多很好的帖子
但是还是要顶楼主的热心
作者: huprot& & 时间:
学习!好贴
作者: raiya& & 时间:
Carmina (Albaladejo) -- Carmina is shell cordovan specialist, but instead of sticking with the standard deep burgundy Color 8, they like to branch into more exotic colors like green, blue, tomato red, and whiskey. They do make calfskin shoes, too. In the past, Carmina has suffered from inelegant lasts, although over the last two years or so, they have remedied that with the Philly 2 and the Rain. The shoes themselves are Goodyear-welted and may have a slightly lower quality of construction than the very best in the RTW however, they are good shoes that are typically offered at very good prices.
&&最近喜欢上了CORDOVAN。这个牌子似乎在日本很少有CORDOVAN的鞋子,而且似乎评价不高。据说西班牙皮鞋很多工程在中国完成。日本么现在也是,REGAL什么的很多在中国生产。
皮鞋么,还是根据外观和功能,然后看价格选比较好。牌子是你经过了选择使用以后,喜欢上以后才开始明确牌子的。鞋子的LAST 皮质 款式 颜色 尺寸 价格,都是考虑因素。而特别是尺寸,虽然说有标准的UK US JP的尺寸,但是实际上每一个牌子的都不一样,每一个LAST也不一样,只有穿过才知道。比如在日本么,拍卖可以买到很多全世界的各种品牌各种尺寸的鞋子,价格也和原产地差不多,但是买来以后经常是不合脚的,然后试了试又被卖了出来。所以去商店试一下,还是有意义的,即便你不买。比如ISETAN的价格,就可能是欧洲价格的2倍以上。
皮鞋的LAST,也就是外形,这个东西真的就看你是不是喜欢。我就不喜欢太短鼻子的,EG里面很多这种。但是头尖到一定程度的,我也不喜欢,所以我不太买意大利的牌子。我还是比较喜欢英国的中长的。另外牛皮皮质上,意大利的也稍微比英国的似乎软一点。说起皮来,shell cordovan是漂亮,也真的是怕水。。。。。。
很多人说穿皮鞋会脚起泡。这个是鞋子不跟脚,然后脚后跟松动不断摩擦造成。这个其实是新鞋买来,再穿之前没有经过适当处理的结果。新鞋子买来不是说直接就穿的。首先在新鞋的鞋帮上涂油,这个大家应该都知道的。然后鞋底的皮底,为了延长寿命也要涂油,涂的是mink oil,以及某种鞋底专用的保革树脂。这样做可以延长鞋底的耐磨程度和防止折断,但是会影响一定的透气性。修鞋底也贵,你多准备几双换着穿的话,这点透气性不是问题。然后是最重要的一步,脚后跟的皮会不会破基本上就看这一步。那就是,沿着将来前掌鞋底可能弯曲的部分,折一下.而且要超过你踮脚的哪个角度,最好超过90度,近乎对折也可以。听起来起来有点恐怖吧。实际上没事儿,鞋子是可以承受的。不过,在此之前的那些涂油准备工作要做好。这个折的工作,在定制皮鞋的新鞋试鞋过程中,工匠会当着你的面替你做的,只不过定制的皮鞋的皮不像那些长期展示在商店的成鞋那样干燥,自己买的鞋子自己做之前一定要涂油润泽。而且你也可以慢慢得折它,如果你真的担心的话。还有如果你觉得,比如说鞋帮折出的皱纹你会不满意,那么你可以先在鞋帮上压出一定的褶皱走势来,用一根筷子这样圆木棒在那里压一下就行了。如果是cordovan这样质地坚硬的皮,也许本来就应该这样。这样折过以后,鞋子就要比原来那样直接穿跟脚的多。而且这样做的另一个好处就是,原本不容易弯曲的新鞋鞋底,鞋尖的部分就会有着剧烈的磨损。这样折一下,新鞋的这部分的磨损就小得多。
作者: Vincent.C& & 时间:
作者: 我随风而过& & 时间:
经典 支持一下
作者: 玛仙& & 时间:
我看成了“关于皮特,我想说两句”,呵呵……抱歉
作者: miumiuedmun& & 时间:
我喜欢 Mephisto , 只穿 Mephisto 的鞋~&&舒服! :)
作者: 坚持三个月& & 时间:
学习的好帖啊。:)
作者: chenmoyatou& & 时间:
强帖留名。。。
作者: BrianD& & 时间:
02:29 & & 标题: My moderate collection
Nothing real spectacular...no woos, no ahas.&&没有John Lobb, G&G, Corthay, VASS等等。&&但是我的wardrobe在两年前还都是Ferragamo, Tods, Bally, Bruno Magli :)。 styleforum 的group thinking 对我的毒害太大了。
第一排,从左至右:
Church's custom grade Chelsea boots.&&Amberley.&&100 last
Edward Green plain captoe oxford/balmoral. Chelsea. 202 last
Crockett & Jones chukka boots.&&Benchgrade.&&Holborn.&&? last
Crockett & Jones for Baldersarini&&wingtip full brogues derby/blucher&&Handgrade&&325 last
Crockett & Jones for Peal & Co.&&Algonquin split-toe derby/blucher.&&317 last
Crockett & Jones for Peal & Co. Punched captoe oxford/balmoral. 240 last
第二排,从左至右:
Allen Edmonds Wholecut.&&Westgate. #8 last
Allen Edmonds Plain captoe double monks.&&Mora. #8 last
Alden Plain captoe oxford. Hampton last
Allen Edmonds Wholecut.&&Westgate. #8 last
Allen Edmonds Plain captoe double monks.&&Mora. #8 last
Santoni FAM (Fatte A Mano) suede plain captoe oxford.&&? last
Alfred Sargent suede punched captoe semi brogues oxford.&&Highgrove. 87 last.
第三排,从左至右:
Allen Edmonds Semi brugues punched captoe derby. Sanford. #7 last
Bruno Magli Tassel loafer
Salvatore Ferragamo horsebit loafer
Allen Edmonds plain captoe oxford. Park Avenue. #5 last
Allen Edmonds scotch grain plain captoe derby with robber sole. ?name?, #2 last 下雨天鞋
Ecco 下雪天的靴子
Wolverine.
[ 本帖最后由 BrianD 于
02:32 编辑 ]
作者: raiya& & 时间:
喜欢 wholecut和oxford captoe。double monk也很帅。而且LAST也很漂亮,不太长也不短。Edward Green plain captoe oxford/balmoral. Chelsea. 202 last,真不错。
作者: aihan1985& & 时间:
长见识了。。
作者: blabo& & 时间:
又见老贴!哈哈
作者: 咖啡 加点盐& & 时间:
又见掘尸的
顺便赞下70L
作者: POVIDONE& & 时间:
非常感谢LZ的无私,学习中。
想问LZ个问题:挪威式缝合法和平常多见的缝合法相比有哪些特点?我一直不明白。谢谢了。
作者: 李美菁& & 时间:
看来不是有名就一定好看,最讨厌男人穿皮鞋是那种又长又尖的款式.怎么看都像鸭.特别是有些人脚宽,穿这种鞋,把鞋穿变形后,那更加难看之极.
作者: loudness& & 时间:
能把皮鞋穿出味道,也是个学问,学习了
作者: 维生素面包& & 时间:
虚心学习。赞一个。
作者: bo.hui& & 时间:
似乎不是我的风格
作者: wuxiaoqiang& & 时间:
作者: munze& & 时间:
16:07 & & 标题: ALDEN AF 60 才是我的最爱
作者: lubaliu& & 时间:
作者: efire& & 时间:
脚宽,穿什么鞋子久了都变形,郁闷。
作者: michael_houdan& & 时间:
长知识了……
作者: jay.wangzheng& & 时间:
作者: 咖啡 加点盐& & 时间:
原帖由 李美菁 于
10:54 发表
看来不是有名就一定好看,最讨厌男人穿皮鞋是那种又长又尖的款式.怎么看都像鸭.特别是有些人脚宽,穿这种鞋,把鞋穿变形后,那更加难看之极.
小脚够细的话 穿这种鞋配修身牛仔或SKINNY还是不错的
看街拍的心得
作者: 我爱豌豆& & 时间:
楼主很专业 发点稍微休闲点的啊
作者: 我爱豌豆& & 时间:
那么多双鞋是哪位的收藏啊?
作者: 柯南的哥& & 时间:
我比较喜欢的
===============================
美国 的Allen-Edmonds ,Taryn Rose
意大利的a.testoni
法国的MEPHISTO
西班牙的CAMPER, MZELAN
作者: reekeystutu& & 时间:
作者: wupo& & 时间:
作者: zakkie13901& & 时间:
我的鞋 - C&Js - 献给klakers~
先上一个,有空再上别双
shoetrees在这里买的~!
[ 本帖最后由 zakkie13901 于
19:12 编辑 ]
作者: simply-red& & 时间:
不跟风,我穿金猴皮鞋,走金光大道。
作者: A在水一方& & 时间:
作者: hana_lily& & 时间:
作者: klakers& & 时间:
还真没转style的。。。楼上的有位朋友貌似转了点askandy的。。。
不存在藏不藏品,我还没有恶趣味去收藏皮鞋的地步。。。
作者: klakers& & 时间:
另,church's的last稍显老气了点,在马德里看到好几双打折的church‘s都没有下手。
就像西装一样,还是英国的跟意大利的东西做的好。
作者: 梦之少年& & 时间:
皮鞋比较喜欢tricker's的,款式经典,但是更加适合年轻人,不过价格不太人性化
作者: blueball& & 时间:
看来是挖了个大古墓……这样的贴子不顶怎么行?!
很奇怪以LZ的品位和消费能力,怎么会选择Wolverine.的户外鞋?那个实在是又蠢笨又粗糙,我觉得甚至于ECCO、Timberland或者Sioux都比Wolverine好很多。
国内的Wolverine售价也就是1KRMB左右,但折扣很大,经常有70%off
作者: blueball& & 时间:
另外请教moreschi和stemar的差距有多大,国内的moreschi似乎以轻便款为主,反而是stemar有一些正装款的皮鞋,价格上二者差距不大。
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